
As you’ll notice from this recipe’s relatively short ingredient list, sweet, tender delicata squash needs little adornment, though the finished soup is beautifully complemented by a bit of crème fraîche and shaved black truffle.
Delicata is a cream-colored oblong squash with green stripes; its sweet, creamy flesh is deep orange-yellow. Though it’s classified as a winter squash, it’s actually one of the first to arrive at the market in the fall, typically in September, and is available through early winter. That’s because, unlike hardier varieties of winter squash, delicata requires no curing after it’s picked; thus, true to its name, the squash’s thin skin means it can’t be stored for quite as long, so it’s one of the first to become unavailable. Other types of squash, such as butternut, honeynut, and acorn squash will all work well here, too.
Like other winter squash, delicata should be stored in a dark, dry spot at cool room temperature, where it’ll last for several weeks, or up to three months if purchased unripe. For extended storage, you may want to keep it in a basket or colander so that air can circulate on all sides to prevent rot. Do not refrigerate delicata squash until you’ve cut into it or cooked it.
Though the skin of delicata squash is edible, it’s not ideal in this velvety soup. Instead, the flesh of the roasted squash is scooped out before it’s added to the saucepan along with vegetable stock and heavy cream.
A Viognier with overtones of pears and peaches is a good match for the aromatic squash in the soup.
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